Fabrikant | engineer |
---|---|
Onderdeelnummer | PA-09 |
Productafmetingen | 17.5 x 5.7 x 1.2 cm; 135 gram |
Modelnummer item | PA-09 |
Is Discontinued By Manufacturer | Nee |
Kleur | Rood |
Aantal items in pakket | 1 |
Meegeleverde componenten | Engineer PA-09 krimptang |
Batterijen inbegrepen? | Nee |
Batterijen vereist? | Nee |
Gewicht | 0.14 Kilogram |
Fabrikant | engineer |
ASIN | B002AVVO7K |
Gegarandeerde software-updates tot | unknown |
Afbeelding niet beschikbaar
kleur:
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ENGINEER PA-09 Universele Krimptang voor het Krimpen van Verschillende Krimpverbindingen van de Belangrijkste Connectorfabrikanten
Je aankoop verbeteren
Merk | ENGINEER |
Kleur | Rood |
Gewicht | 0.14 Kilogram |
Afmetingen van item (L x B x H) | 17.5 x 5.7 x 1.2 centimeter |
Over dit item
- crimpt AWG32 ~ AWG20-draden van meer dan 80 verschillende krimpverbindingen (incl. D-SUB-connector) van de belangrijkste connectorfabrikanten
- Geschikt voor het krimpen van 1,25 tot 2,5 mm krimpverbinders (Narrow pitch)
- 4 verschillende krimpinzetstukken: 1,0 mm, 1,4 mm, 1,6 mm, 1,9 mm
- Geschikt voor het krimpen van 1,25 tot 2,5 mm krimpverbinders (Narrow pitch)
- Oliebestendige TPR-handgrepen (thermoplastisch rubber) voor ongeëvenaard comfort, met riemgaten aan de uiteinden van de grepen - met veer voor eenvoudige bediening (vergrendelbaar)
Productgegevens
Technische gegevens
Extra informatie
Klantenrecensies |
4,6 van 5 sterren |
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Plaats in bestsellerlijst | #2,598 in Klussen & gereedschap (Top 100 in bekijkenKlussen & gereedschap) #26 in Krimptangen |
Datum eerste beschikbaarheid | 18 juli 2019 |
Garantie en ondersteuning
Vaak samen gekocht
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Klanten die dit item hebben bekeken, bekeken ook
Productbeschrijving
Super nauwkeurige krimp. Dit -- Open barrel Contact krimpt in strakke afwerking

De Engineer krimptang kan het geleiderdeel en het isolatiedeel afzonderlijk krimpen. Door het instellen van de grijpkracht wordt de ladder stevig gekrimpd en de isolatie is geslaagd.
Kenmerken:
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Lijn eerst de randen van een krimpcontact met de tang. |
Kabelschoenen worden veilig op de ladder gekrimpd. |
Uitgebreid ontworpen krimpinzetstukken kunnen de stekker veilig op de kabelisolatie rollen en krimpen. |
#PA-09 heeft een praktische stopper en een spiraalveer. |
PA-09 Specificaties

Klantenrecensies
Klantenrecensies, inclusief sterbeoordelingen voor producten, geven klanten meer informatie over het product en helpen bij de beslissing of dit het juiste product voor hen is.
Om de algehele sterbeoordeling en procentuele uitsplitsing per ster te berekenen, gebruiken we niet een gewoon gemiddelde. Maar ons systeem houdt rekening met zaken als hoe recent een recensie is en of de beoordelaar het item op Amazon heeft gekocht. Het systeem heeft ook recensies geanalyseerd om de betrouwbaarheid te verifiëren.
Meer informatie over hoe klantenrecensies op Amazon werkenBeste recensies uit andere landen

There's a definite "knack" to using this tool, and even having crimped thousands of these, I still find them very fiddly to crimp.
The JST crimps have 2 tab sections, one is used to crimp to the insulator ensuring that the cable is held in place, and the second is the actual terminal itself.
The method that works for me is:
1.) bend the insulator tabs inwards very slightly with needle nosed pliers, if you don't do this, you won't be cable to perform the actual crimp.
2) place the crimp into this tool, I rotate the tool in my hand so the legend is facing away, I need to do this is ensure that I'm only crimping the insulator and not the other tabs, I gently close the tool slightly to grab the crimp, then rotate the tool back so the legend is visible, the back of the connector is now facing me.
3.) As I'm looking at the rear of the crimp, I insert t he cable into the crimp and look at the other side to make sure that I haven't pushed the cable in too far or not enough, it should be positioned so that the cable insulator is touching the outer tab, and the conductor is touching the inner tabs.
4.) very carefully I close the tool to perform the crimp.
At this point, you might get a good crimp, or, you might end up with the crimp rotating in the tool jaws, in which case you have to reset everything and try again, the final problem you may get is that the tabs just didn't fold properly, in which case you need to remove the crimp/cut it off/trim the cable and so on.
If the crimp was OK, then you repeat the process again, and crimp the inner tabs, just make sure that you check that you are not crushing the end of the crimp, if you do the pin won't be usable.
Other issues also include the crimp bending.
It works reasonably well most of the time, but sometimes they can be infuriating, especially when the tabs don't fold properly.
This is a common issue I've read with this tool, but this is one of the best tools for these crimps, so I kind of just live with these issues.
Take your time, and inspect everything before you make the actual crimp.
It's also well worth having a multimeter set to "beep" mode, after crimping you should check that the cable is ok, sometimes the cable may more and the conductor might make no or poor contact.


Beoordeeld in het Verenigd Koninkrijk op 31 december 2021
There's a definite "knack" to using this tool, and even having crimped thousands of these, I still find them very fiddly to crimp.
The JST crimps have 2 tab sections, one is used to crimp to the insulator ensuring that the cable is held in place, and the second is the actual terminal itself.
The method that works for me is:
1.) bend the insulator tabs inwards very slightly with needle nosed pliers, if you don't do this, you won't be cable to perform the actual crimp.
2) place the crimp into this tool, I rotate the tool in my hand so the legend is facing away, I need to do this is ensure that I'm only crimping the insulator and not the other tabs, I gently close the tool slightly to grab the crimp, then rotate the tool back so the legend is visible, the back of the connector is now facing me.
3.) As I'm looking at the rear of the crimp, I insert t he cable into the crimp and look at the other side to make sure that I haven't pushed the cable in too far or not enough, it should be positioned so that the cable insulator is touching the outer tab, and the conductor is touching the inner tabs.
4.) very carefully I close the tool to perform the crimp.
At this point, you might get a good crimp, or, you might end up with the crimp rotating in the tool jaws, in which case you have to reset everything and try again, the final problem you may get is that the tabs just didn't fold properly, in which case you need to remove the crimp/cut it off/trim the cable and so on.
If the crimp was OK, then you repeat the process again, and crimp the inner tabs, just make sure that you check that you are not crushing the end of the crimp, if you do the pin won't be usable.
Other issues also include the crimp bending.
It works reasonably well most of the time, but sometimes they can be infuriating, especially when the tabs don't fold properly.
This is a common issue I've read with this tool, but this is one of the best tools for these crimps, so I kind of just live with these issues.
Take your time, and inspect everything before you make the actual crimp.
It's also well worth having a multimeter set to "beep" mode, after crimping you should check that the cable is ok, sometimes the cable may more and the conductor might make no or poor contact.


I've used this narrow crimping tool for some KF2510 2.54mm (0.1") sockets and pins. You can get kits here on Amazon (eg https://amzn.to/3LVvva1) and they are great for keeping connections together but also allowing the polarised plug and socket to be separated much more easily than with a locking JST XH connector.
But you do need the right tool to crimp the pins as the photo shows. It's a two step-procedure: first crimp the wire into the connector then crimp the plastic wire to hold it all steady. It's sounds far more fiddly than it is in Real Life, especially once you have done a few.
The photo shows a near-perfectly crimped pin. I find it easier to crimp individual pins not those on a long strip. Near perfect, you ask? The photo shows a very slight bend (like a banana) to the finished pin which is down to me putting too much pressure on the tool when using it. I'll get better in time, I'm sure.
This is my second "Engineer" tool (from Japan) and they are both excellent quality tools indeed. Expensive but, given the lack of a realistic alternative, absolutely essential.


Beoordeeld in het Verenigd Koninkrijk op 8 april 2022
I've used this narrow crimping tool for some KF2510 2.54mm (0.1") sockets and pins. You can get kits here on Amazon (eg https://amzn.to/3LVvva1) and they are great for keeping connections together but also allowing the polarised plug and socket to be separated much more easily than with a locking JST XH connector.
But you do need the right tool to crimp the pins as the photo shows. It's a two step-procedure: first crimp the wire into the connector then crimp the plastic wire to hold it all steady. It's sounds far more fiddly than it is in Real Life, especially once you have done a few.
The photo shows a near-perfectly crimped pin. I find it easier to crimp individual pins not those on a long strip. Near perfect, you ask? The photo shows a very slight bend (like a banana) to the finished pin which is down to me putting too much pressure on the tool when using it. I'll get better in time, I'm sure.
This is my second "Engineer" tool (from Japan) and they are both excellent quality tools indeed. Expensive but, given the lack of a realistic alternative, absolutely essential.


- Do the bare crimp first
- If the terminal is bend slightly out of straight after the first crimp (it often is slightly), flex it back to straight before doing the second crimp
- Squeeze the lobes of the second crimp inwards slightly before crimping
- Pay attention to how deep you inset the terminal into the tool, it makes a difference
I've crimped loads of terminals since I bought these for professional prototyping work, and have ben very pleased with the results. I've not had a single failure to date

These however are precise, i find it very hard to over crimp with them if I have the right slot selected and yet they produce a solid crimp, yes you have to crimp twice (once for the bare wire then once for the insulation) but given how easy it is to get this done because of the thin jaws i actually found it quicker than trying to line up and crimp just the once with the ratchets.
It might seem like a big cost but they cover a wide range of sizes and that means i only need the one tool so buying cheaper ratchets is a false economy.
It is hard to overstate how much of a pleasure these are to use, everything is just tight and well aligned, super comfy to use. Just do yourself a favour and buy them I swear I'm actually looking for more things to crimp they are just that nice.
In summary Buy cheap, Buy twice. Just get these instead, seriously Japanese tools are the best

Waste of money, at least for the micro-sized "Dupont" connectors like hobbyist jumper leads, servo connectors, etc. It's nigh-on impossible to get a good crimp from one of these crude tools.
After reading pretty much every blog post on the matter, I gritted my teeth and slapped down the £35 for one of these PA-09 tools. I read the instructions on the back card, and my very first crimp did take a while to set up, but ended up indistinguishable from a "professional" joint. Perfect.
You do have to crimp it twice: once for the conductor, and then once for the insulation, and you've got to balance things. I can see why everyone suggests wrapping a rubber band around the handles. In fact, I removed the spring. It's a simple tool, but it undeniably works.


Beoordeeld in het Verenigd Koninkrijk op 3 november 2016
Waste of money, at least for the micro-sized "Dupont" connectors like hobbyist jumper leads, servo connectors, etc. It's nigh-on impossible to get a good crimp from one of these crude tools.
After reading pretty much every blog post on the matter, I gritted my teeth and slapped down the £35 for one of these PA-09 tools. I read the instructions on the back card, and my very first crimp did take a while to set up, but ended up indistinguishable from a "professional" joint. Perfect.
You do have to crimp it twice: once for the conductor, and then once for the insulation, and you've got to balance things. I can see why everyone suggests wrapping a rubber band around the handles. In fact, I removed the spring. It's a simple tool, but it undeniably works.
